Ribeiro Frio - Madeira's Cold Secret
- Author Robert James
- Published November 18, 2010
- Word count 1,087
Ribeiro Frio in Madeira is one of those little known destinations that should actually be much more widely publicised. The local name for it appropriately describes its natural features and is easily understood by Portuguese speaking visitors. However, the visiting English speaking tourist will only realise the name's significance once they have sampled that natural feature.
In short, Ribeiro Frio translates to "Cold River".
If you travel on the main road linking Funchal, Madeira's capital in the south, to Santana, a quaint village with tourist trappings on the north coast, Ribeiro Frio lies somewhere approximately in the middle between the two. The village nestles high up in Madeira's mountainous interior region.
Ribeiro Frio, true to its name, is centered on a rapidly flowing river. The fast moving waters being considerably chilled by the altitude and their endless, cascading movement. These waters are also responsible for blessing the village with a major tourist attractions.
Tour companies, unlike the average brochure driven holidaymaker, are well aware of Ribeiro Frio's unique qualities. For them, the small village is an essential stop on their ever popular East of Madeira Island tours. Witness the frequent confusion of parked coaches on the narrow main road. For those savvy independent travellers who have access to a hire car, you should not be surprised if you are forced to abandon your vehicle and walk the last fifty metres or so to get to the heart of the village. To say parking places are at a premium who be a fair assessment of the situation!
Having finally arrived, you may be a tad disappointed because, upon first surveying the village centre, you can be misled into thinking that Ribeiro Frio boasts little more than a single restaurant, a rather dishevelled-looking bar - and, of course, the almost mandatory tourist souvenir shop. However, do not let first impressions cloud you judgement. This unassuming rural village has a number of things of interest to see and do.
Just a short stroll down from the Ribeiro Frio Restaurant, there is the main attraction that pulls most people to Ribeiro Frio - the government run trout farm. Which, not unusually for Madeira, has free public admission. The grounds are pleasantly planted and somewhat incongruous. But this does not detract from the tranquility as you make your way around the several trout ponds. The uninspiring, plain, white, square hatchery tanks are perfunctory and nothing else. Whereas, the round, brickwork, green hue of the adult pools can leave you gazing into an endless twirl of performing rainbow trout. And, each is fed by the chill, fresh waters of the local river that gives the village its name.
Unfortunately, for those who are keen anglers, fishing is definitely not allowed. I have even heard it suggested by some local sceptics that the trout offered for consumption at the adjacent restaurant is definitely not obtained from the farm. One individual has even "gone public" and declared that not one single rainbow trout will ever be seen on any Madeiran menu until that elusive pot of gold at the end of the rainbow has been found. This is hard to credit. Madeira Island is not blessed with easily exploited natural resources and the local population has a long tradition of extracting every last minute benefit that is on offer.
At the other end of the Ribeiro Frio village is the SRA Loja do Ambiente, an environmental education centre housed in a large white building. The SRA Loja do Ambiente is part of a consortium of similar establishments covering Madeira, the Azores and the Canary Islands. Not really intended as a tourist attraction, but rather aimed at educating local children in the need for protecting their island home, this establishment may be of interest to those involved in such issues. This facility is not really intended as a tourist attraction. As such, it will be a case of hit and miss if it is actually open when you visit. The presence of an English speaking attendant is similarly a matter of chance.
Apart from these two attractions, the local restaurant is where most day-trippers head. If you do intend to dine at the restaurant, then keep a look out for arriving coaches. The village is a frequent stop on many Eastern Madeira tours and the sudden rush of 60 or more passengers, all simultaneously hungry, can leave the staff overstretched. Internet reviews and feedback on the Restaurant Ribeiro Frio are contradictory and carry a range of opinions. Usually open from 12noon to 6:00pm, it is not expensive given its position and the almost total lack of competing outlets. If you are visiting during the height of the tourist season, you can always phone ahead and reserve a table. The telephone number is (291) 575 898.
Alternatively, if a snack or a casual drink is all that you are really looking for, then the dated but friendly confines of Victor's Bar will be more suitable. The outside tables, although basic, are very welcome on a hot summer's day.
After having enjoyed your meal, the surrounding laurissilva forest, waterfall and panoramic views provide the ideal backdrop for taking a walk in a natural, unspoilt environment. The flat, easy and ever-popular 1 hour round journey walk to the spectacular Balcoes viewpoint is really a must do. Finally, at your journey's end, a natural rocky outcrop, akin to a balcony, gives fantastic views of the valley and mountains that stretch out spectacularly before you.
Alternatively, if you are feeling adventurous, you can set out along the demanding Levada do Furado walk to Portela. This walk is very narrow in places, with shear drops and with little protection in the way of railings. The journey lasts around 4 hours and you can only expect to cover it one way. It is also definitely not a recommended undertaking for novice hikers. If you do fancy the challenge, then it is advisable to check with the local official tourist office in Funchal for advice beforehand and, in any case, always observe any warnings given on the noticeboard at the start of the levada just below the Restaurant Ribeiro Frio.
Finally, before you head for a well-earned night's rest at your hotel, there is one little thing that you simply must do - locate a convenient spot and lower your hand into the rapid movement of the flowing river. From the instant that your fingertips dip below the surface, a lasting memory will be etched on your being and you will always remember just why Ribeiro Frio was so called.
Robert James BSc(Hons) has travelled extensively and is the editor of the independent Madeira travel guide. For a tourist guide visit the Ribeiro Frio dedicated webpage. © You may freely republish this article, provided the text, author credit, the active links and this copyright notice remain intact.
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