Putting an end to destructive scratching

PetsCats

  • Author Robyn Broyles
  • Published July 18, 2008
  • Word count 1,204

Dealing with scratching behavior is an inevitable part of having a cat. Many people wrongly assume that you can't have both a cat and nice furniture unless the cat is declawed. Happily, you do not have to choose between claws and couches; cats can be taught to leave the furniture alone.

Understanding clawing behavior

Cats have a hardwired instinct to scratch objects. This behavior cannot be trained out of them. Even declawed cats go through the motions of scratching. Therefore, to save your furniture, clawing has to be made harmless. The most effective and reliable way is by training your cat to express this instinct appropriately.

Cats scratch for several reasons. The most obvious is to stretch and hone their claws. Hooking the claws on a rough surface and pulling inward stretches and conditions the muscles and tendons in the paws. This activity also removes the old nail outer nail sheaths, which means it is the feline equivalent of a manicure.

As territorial animals, cats are driven to claim areas they frequent as their own. Scratching leaves a visible mark that that tell other cats that an territory is taken. This is the reason a cat's chosen scratching sites are usually in prominent locations, such as a fence post near the street or an armchair in the living room.

The mark that is left behind by scratching behavior goes beyond what we can see. On the inside of a cat's wrist is a scent gland, and during scratching, it leaves a scent mark undetectable to humans but impossible for cats to ignore. A cat is instinctively attracted to scratch wherever her nose tells her she has scratched before, which is why cats are drawn to claw at the same favorite places over and over.

Even declawed cats appear to take great pleasure in this instinctive activity. In fact, it may give a cat an emotional release for tension she is feeling, just as a human might fidget with a worry stone or chew a pencil.

Training good scratching habits

Knowing why your cat scratches provides the key to teaching her not to damage your property. You first need to provide her with inviting places to scratch. Choose several materials; if your cat is fussy about texture, this will give you the best chance of success. Good choices are corrugated cardboard (glued in layers and set cut side up), sisal rope wrapped around a board, and untreated wood boards such as pine. Commercial scratching posts are often covered with carpet, but since it is not very rough, many cats reject this material. The reverse side of the carpet is actually much more inviting to most cats.

If you choose a vertical scratcher, make sure it is sturdy and steady. To a cat, a hanging board that moves back and forth is frustrating, and a post that tips over easily is downright frightening.

Locate the scratching pads in various parts of the house, including her favorite sleeping areas and high-traffic areas. These are the places she is already most motivated to mark as her own territory. Be sure to place a scratcher in the same room as any furniture items she already uses so she has a replacement.

Show your cat her scratching pads. Take her paw and gently move it over each pad, imitating her scratching motion. This helps her get the idea, and more importantly, it deposits scent from her wrist gland and encourages her to make it a regular stop.

Praise your cat when you see her use one of her scratchers. If you catch her scratching in a forbidden place, distract her with a loud noise or a quick squirt from a water bottle. (This distraction is only effective if you catch her in the act; if there is any delay, she will not make the connection between the behavior and your response.) Then take her to one of her scratchers. If her inappropriate scratching behavior is very ingrained, you may need to use a cat repellent spray or even temporarily cover the forbidden object with a slick, tough plastic cover.

Kittens are easiest to train because they are in a learning phase of their lives, and they have not yet established any bad habits. But older cats who are used to putting their claws wherever they like can learn to express their scratching instinct appropriately, as well, although training will probably take longer. Consistency is important – you need to be more stubborn about training than your cat.

Keep in mind that a well-used scratcher will need occasional replacement or recovering. These objects are meant to be used up! When you make the replacement, you can pat yourself on the back about how much less it costs than new upholstery.

The problems with declawing

Declawing may seem at first like an attractive alternative to training. It is effective, and for many people, declawing a standard part of acquiring a new kitten. But unlike spaying and neutering, which have clear benefits to your cat, declawing is problematic. Technically called onychectomy, it is actually the amputation of the last bone of each toe at the joint, and the procedure is both painful and permanent. In fact, onychectomy is illegal in some countries. Declawing leaves a cat defenseless, unable to defend herself or to climb trees. Even if she is an indoor cat, she can get into a lot of trouble if she escapes your home and has no claws.

Other options

Some cats have deeply established bad habits, and some owners would like a little extra peace of mind while their cat is learning to use her scratching pads reliably. Soft, harmless nail caps are available that blunt the claws; you can apply them yourself, or have a veterinarian or groomer do it. You can also consider trimming her nails periodically with a claw clipper designed for that purpose. Both of these treatments, unlike declawing, are temporary and painless. Keep in mind, however, that they leave your cat as defenseless as if she were declawed.

To trim your cat's nails, you will need a claw clipper especially designed for that purpose, available in pet stores. Avoid using a human-style nail clipper; this device only works on flat nails and will split your cat's claws. Trim her nails when she is relaxed and sleepy. Gently squeeze a toe to extend the nail and find the pink part of the nail, called the quick, and make the cut well away from it. The quick contains nerves and blood vessels, and if you cut it, it will hurt and bleed. If your cat has dark claws, it may be hard to find the quick; trim less of the claw if you have to in order to avoid the quick. If she becomes anxious and begins to resist, let her go and finish the job later. When all her nails are trimmed, give her a treat.

A happier pet household

There is no need to give up your household furnishings when you share your home with a cat. Some preparations and persistence will keep the sofa safe from attack. When there is no tension between you over this behavior issue, both you and your cat will be happier.

Robyn Broyles is a cat lover and science writer. She writes two blogs: "Leave the lights on" (http://ginkgo100.blogspot.com/) and "The Road to Black" (http://roadtoblack.blogspot.com/). Contact her at ginkgo100 (at) gmail (dot) com.

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