How to Install Wainscoting

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  • Author Pat Fisher
  • Published September 6, 2009
  • Word count 527

Wainscoting has a timeless affect on any room in your home, breathing style and comfort at the same time. Originally used in the 16th century, wainscoting had a relevant use. Covering the bottom half of the walls was a type of insulation from the drafty floors and cracks that seeped into homes during cold seasons. Decoration of the wind barrier started soon after and wainscoting was born.

If you are handy with tools and measurements, installing wainscoting can be simple but many chose to hire a professional, afraid that their work will be less than professional looking. But starting with a flat wall, containing few obstacles, tackling this job should not be a problem for an amateur.

Wainscoting comes in wide boards to make the job easier. If your boards are of wood substance, bring them indoors 48 hours before you begin. Wood expands and contracts and letting them get used to the atmosphere is called acclimating. Most panels are 32" tall and in order to get a perfectly straight light, measure down from the ceiling. Most floors are uneven but never noticed unless you try measuring up, then it will stand out as your wainscoting weaves up and down with the dips.

Locate your wall studs and mark as anchors for the nails. Most of the job can be done with adhesive but having security in studs guarantees the work. Start in a left corner and work right unless you are left-handed then the opposite would probably be more comfortable. Leave close to ½ from the floor for any expansion of the wood. The floor molding will cover this nicely.

Although you have measured from the ceiling and feel ready to lay your first piece, make a plum line or a level where the end of the first panel should lay horizontally. Your corner could be a bit crooked and could throw off all panels following. Obstacles, such as outlets should be addressed as you come to them because of the ¼ or ½ adjustment that you may have to make with the corner. When you get to this point, measure exactly, turn your board over and cut out your rectangle with a jigsaw.

Don’t butt the pieces tightly together but leave a 1/16" gap between the pieces to prevent buckling with the wood contracting. As you can guess, when you get to your first corner, the board is not going to fit perfectly. If sawing or shaving is necessary, begin at the top and taper downwards. You have ½ " to play with since a corner molding will hide any imperfections. Continue around the room in this manner and you will be amazed at your end project. Add your trim and molding, outlet plates, finish with the chair rail molding and your room is complete.

There are many different styles of wainscoting available on the market today. Bead board, raised panel and flat panel are a few of the most popular choices but all available in this great flat backed workable board. Make this a weekend project with a friend or your family and the rewards will be even greater with the memories of spending the day together and the awesome outcome.

Pat Fisher is a professional carpenter and woodworking craftsman. Through his website he shares his knowledge with DIY homeowners. For more information on finish carpentry and household carpentry projects, visit [http://www.finishcarpentryhelp.com](http://www.finishcarpentryhelp.com)

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