In 2022, the U.S. was the global leading hair dye market, estimated at $86 billion in revenue. By 2028, this number is forecasted to exceed $104 billion. However, while the E.U. is rated as one of the safest regions for hair dye products, given its stringent regulations on consumer safety, the U.S. lags behind. Data from the National Cancer Institute (NCI) shows that while being dangerous to human health, hundreds of chemicals are still being used in U.S. hair dyes every year, with little to no regulations for these substances. Compounding this issue, the Federal Drug Administration (FDA) also does not require prior approval for hair dye products. In practice, this means that manufacturers are free to add to their products chemicals that may cause serious adverse effects to consumers, especially when used over an extended period.

Those who are most at risk are people who use hair dye frequently, and more often than not, these are women. A rapid review of evidence carried out by the Environmental Working Group quotes several studies that provide a direct link between specific chemicals used in hair dyes and an increased risk of uterine, breast, and ovarian cancer. Notably, while women may be more at risk, another category is significantly affected, namely, hairdressers. Hair dyes used in beauty salons are no different in terms of toxicity from hair dyes available in stores. As hair professionals come in contact with these chemicals every day, their risk of developing serious conditions is far higher.

Top Five Toxic Chemicals to Watch Out for in Hair Dye

Although there are countless toxic chemicals used in hair dyes, some are worse than others. A 2022 review published in Chemical Research in Toxicology identifies multiple chemicals of particular concern, each linked to troubling health effects.

First is p-phenylenediamine (PPD), a common dye precursor in permanent hair color. This compound is known to trigger allergic contact dermatitis and has further been linked to oxidative stress and bladder cancer in certain populations. Another dangerous substance in hair dye is toluene-2,5-diamine, also used in permanent dyes, with demonstrated mutagenic effects and reproductive toxicity in animal studies. Pregnant women should most likely avoid dying their hair with hair dyes containing this toxin. Herein, it is to be noted that while some argue that toluene-2,5-diamine is safe for cosmetic use, more recent evidence seems to prove otherwise, pointing to a frequency of use and dose toxicity dependence.

Resorcinol, a coupler used in oxidative dyes, may disrupt thyroid function at high doses and is considered an overall endocrine disruptor. Women who dye their hair frequently with dyes containing this compound may be significantly at risk of developing thyroid disease. Others indicate that resorcinol can bind to DNA, which further indicates that this chemical may hold a strong mutagenic potential.

4-aminobiphenyl, a contaminant formed during PPD manufacturing, is a known human carcinogen associated with bladder cancer risk. Finally, hydroquinone, often used for its antioxidant properties, is linked to nephrotoxicity, skin depigmentation, and animal carcinogenicity.

The Need for Better Regulation of Haircare Products in the U.S.

In the U.S., consumer product and safety regulations follow a "weight of evidence" principle, meaning that action against a potentially harmful product is typically only taken once significant, confirmed evidence of harm emerges. In Europe, consumer markets operate under the "precautionary principle," which prioritizes consumer safety by restricting or banning substances even when there is only preliminary evidence of potential harm. This fundamental difference in regulatory philosophy helps explain why hair dye safety standards in the E.U. are far more stringent compared to those in the U.S., with far fewer hazardous chemicals permitted in European hair products.

As in America, hair dyes are not subject to premarket approval by the FDA, manufacturers are solely responsible for ensuring their products are safe and properly labeled. The FDA can only intervene after a product is on the market, typically following reports of adverse effects. Even then, enforcement is limited as the FDA cannot mandate recalls and must rely on voluntary company actions or pursue lengthy legal processes to have dangerous products removed. Although manufacturers can be held liable under consumer protection laws if their products cause harm, the burden often falls on affected individuals to prove damage through complex and costly litigation.

Consumer Fight Back Toxic Hair Dye

With increasing consumer awareness of the dangers of toxins in hair dye, the U.S. market is experiencing a notable shift towards natural and toxin-free products. Recent studies indicate that over 70% of consumers now prefer natural hair colorants, reflecting a broader trend towards sustainable and health-conscious beauty solutions. This preference is further supported by the rising demand for ammonia-free, paraben-free, and cruelty-free hair dyes, which have seen a 22% increase in market share. So, what does this mean for hair dye manufacturers?

Manufacturers who will keep using toxic, unregulated chemicals in hair dyes are already experiencing a decrease in demand for their products, while market shares for safer alternatives are on the rise. Under the financial pressure of lost profits, these manufacturers will have no choice but to adapt to new consumer demands and replace harmful chemicals with safer solutions. This important shift in consumer purchase decision-making will thus likely drive the hair dye market in the U.S. towards a safer and more transparent future.