Deer have become an increasing problem in nearly all areas of the United Kingdom and the deer population is thought to be higher now than at any time in history. Coppice re-growth and natural regeneration of trees is impossible in many places without fencing or other protection. In some areas Muntjac deer are causing significant damage to the ground flora of woodlands. Deer fencing is erected for any of the following purposes:

• To exclude deer from woodlands, including plantations, coppiced woodlands, newly planted amenity woodlands and those where natural regeneration is needed to maintain or extend woodland cover.

• Exclosure fences may also be needed to protect high-value horticultural and agricultural crops.

• To include deer within a farm or wildlife park.

• Exclude deer from private property.

Where they choose to feed, rub, walk and breed is a habit learned over time and reinforced every time they do it safely. To exclude a deer herd from a food source, area or trail to which they are habituated forces the herd to break this habit. Thus the first day, week and month of denial of use (by a fence) is the key period. Once the habit is broken, the change in routines and location is easier to maintain. However, you are only fencing out the animals desire so don't expect success in persuading a starving deer herd to feed elsewhere if your site is its only food source. The greater the desire - the more substantial the barrier has to be.

Full-height (1.8m) wire netting for deer fencing was designed for deer farming, and is not always suitable for woodland exclosures or other uses. The rolls of netting are extremely heavy and require machine access along the fence line, and the netting is difficult to fit neatly on undulating ground. Traditional Deer fences can be a significant source of mortality to low flying ground nesting birds, particularly capercaillie and black grouse.

There are four basic approaches to controlling deer damage to woodlands, which may need to be used in combination:

• Fencing or tree guards. Netting or mesh fences are necessary, as deer can push between the wires of line wire fencing.

• Providing alternative grazing and browsing to divert attention away from the areas you want to protect.

• Culling of population. Culling has to be organized on a local area basis, as deer will rapidly move into woodland where culling has taken place. Contact the local Forestry Commission office as there may be a deer management group in your area.

• Electric Fencing is highly effective and being intrinsically lighter than conventional fencing is substantially cheaper and easier to erect.

Note that deer can easily injure themselves by attempting to jump normal 2m stock fences. As the deer tries to jump, its leg can get entangled in the top wires, where it dies a lingering death.

Electric fences deter the deer's brain instead of the body and siting and erecting the fence should bear that in mind and should be managed with an awareness of how a deer herd interacts with your area and the new fence.

Permanent Fencing.

These generally utilize wooden posts combined with suitable ring insulators. Plain wire is the most suitable due to its longevity and most important, its excellent conductivity. The number of strands depends on the type of deer being excluded. Muntjac Deer are small (size of a medium dog) at 50cm, through Fallow Deer 100cm to the taller Red Deer at 130cm. The first wire goes in at that height as that is the nose height at rest and the nose is what animals use to investigate un-familiar objects.

Muntjac have the habit of going under wire so put in 2 lines below that and one 20cm above. So for Muntjac spacing would be 15,30,50 and 70cm above ground.

Red Deer have a habit of jumping so 5 wire fence is preferable at 50, 80,110,130 and 170cm.A total exclusion fence for deer would therefore be a combination of the two and require 7 strands. (It is important you read the section on Training the Deer

Deer have a natural insulation due to the hooves and hair and this has proved to be a problem in the past. Electric fencing has in the past been thought to be not totally effective but this has been rectified by new technology and improved exclusion techniques. It is recommended that the hotShock or HoriSmart energizers are used. These run at higher voltages than standard models to enable them to bridge this natural insulation. (Again the section on Training the Deer is important)

Temporary Fencing

Poly Posts are very useful in temporary situations. They are very simple to use and are quite adequate. Use the longest available, especially for Red Deer and at 150cm above ground they are adequate for most situations. The ends and corners still need to be wooden posts to enable you to tension the wires adequately. For temporary fences, Poly twines or rope is preferable to wire as they are easily handled and easily wound onto reels for transporting to another site.

3 Dimensional Fences.

There are reports coming out of the USA where an additional single line 1 meter on the pressure side of the fence greatly improves fences that are less than 150cm high. The principle is based on the belief that deer have less than ideal depth perception so are more tentative with wide fences rather than tall. The Australian technique of leaning the fence towards the deer probably replicates this effect.

Training the Deer.

Remember we need to change the deers habits built up over a period of time. There are two methods of increasing the effectiveness of the fence. The first is by clearing the brush about 3-5 meters away from the fence. The smaller deer have an inbuilt tentativeness crossing open areas that is reinforced by contact with the fence.

Red Deer in particular have a habit of not investigating the fence and simply jump over it. This is in common with the Springbuck and Impala of Southern Africa (both of which do comfortably clear a 2 meter high fence) and consequently an effective technique has evolved there whereby the fence is initially baited to attract the target to investigate the fence.

With deer this is done by two methods;-

• Little metal Bait Caps containing cotton wool soaked with an apple scented essence attached to the fence. (Neat apple cordial works well.) These may be left on the fence and re-baited when necessary.

• Lengths of kitchen foil smeared with peanut butter, molasses/treacle or syrup wrapped around the wires at strategic positions of the fence. These should be removed and replaced if pressure on the fence re-occurs.

The animals sniff the bait with their sensitive noses and get an effective sting from the fence. This then creates the psychological barrier in the animal's brain. A barrier that they are unable to see and consequently do not know how high it goes. To illustrate this further, foxes, rabbits and badgers do not dig under electric fences for the same reason. The deer seldom attempt a second try. This may sound harsh, but the technique is VERY effective and after the first few animals get a sting the rest will learn from their experiences, termed "Socially Conditioned Avoidance," and the fence will be left alone. The bait may be removed after about a week. Baiting may be necessary again if another herd comes into the area, the deer begin to test the fence again or after the fence has been off for a while.