When I first looked up at Island Peak, I told myself, “This is just a trekking peak. How bad can it be?”

I laugh at that thought now.

Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse, stands at 6,189 meters. It’s often seen as a beginner’s Himalayan climb, a warm-up before bigger mountains like Mera Peak or even Ama Dablam. But let me tell you there’s nothing “easy” about it. Sure, it’s manageable with the right training and mindset, but Island Peak demands your respect.

And if there’s one place where you’ll question everything it’s the final push to the summit.

The Journey Begins: Not Just a Climb, But a Trek

Before the ropes, before the ice walls, there’s the long walk in.

The journey starts like a classic Everest Base Camp trek, passing through Lukla, Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, and finally Chhukung. It’s the warm-up stretch your body adjusting to the thin air, your mind preparing for the climb. You’ll cross swinging bridges, sip hot soup in quiet teahouses, and fall asleep to the sound of distant yak bells.

The trail is beautiful, and on most days, you’ll walk beneath giant peaks that look like frozen waves in the sky. But don’t be fooled—the real challenge hasn’t begun yet.

From Chhukung, you head to Island Peak Base Camp. That’s when things shift. Gone are the cozy lodges now you’re in tents, with cold feet and even colder mornings. You go to sleep with your crampons outside your bag and your water bottle inside it, because water freezes and metal turns into ice blocks by sunrise.

The Real Climb Starts at Midnight

Most summit pushes start around 1:00 a.m.

It’s pitch dark. You wear all your layers base, mid, down jacket and still shiver. You walk in a line of headlamps, your boots crunching over rocky trails. At first, it’s manageable. But then comes the rock scramble a steep, uneven climb that feels like it never ends.

There’s no trail here, just a mix of loose rocks and hard-packed dirt. You use your hands, knees, elbows whatever works. You try not to look up, because the headlamps above you look like stars you’ll never reach.

Your lungs burn. Your legs beg for a break. But you keep going.

Because this is what you came for.

Welcome to the Headwall

Now, here’s the part most people talk about the headwall.

At around 6,000 meters, just before the summit ridge, you reach a vertical wall of ice. It’s the final obstacle. And trust me, it’s the part that stays with you long after the climb is over.

The slope can be as steep as 60 degrees in sections. You clip into fixed ropes using your jumar (ascender), and you move inch by inch. Every step feels like a battle. Your boots sink into snow, your harness feels too tight, and your breath becomes shallow.

And that’s when you hear it: the sound of silence. Not peaceful silence but the kind where even the wind seems to hold its breath. You’re too high, too focused, too tired to notice anything but the next step.

You might slip a little. You might swear under your breath. And for a moment, you might even wonder what you’re doing here.

But then one final push and you’re on the ridge.

The Summit: A Place Above the Clouds

You reach the top, and for a second, everything stops.

You don’t cry, you don’t shout. You just stand there, above the clouds, with mountains all around you. Lhotse, Makalu, and even Baruntse nod at you from a distance. You look down at the glacier you climbed, the valley you left behind, and suddenly it all makes sense.

Island Peak isn’t the tallest mountain in Nepal. But it has enough bite to make you earn every meter.

Things You Should Know

Altitude is real: Many people turn back before the summit because of exhaustion or altitude sickness. Give yourself enough days to acclimatize before the climb.

The glacier section is no joke: Crevasses are real. You’ll be roped in with your guide, wearing crampons and using ice axes. Know your gear before you go.

Train smart: You don’t need to be a pro athlete, but you do need solid stamina, strong legs, and a mindset that doesn’t quit when it gets hard.

Don’t climb alone: Go with a proper guide or company. Weather changes quickly, and the trail isn’t always clear especially at night.

A Climb Worth Remembering

Island Peak taught me that a “beginner mountain” can still feel like the roof of the world. It taught me how strong I can be when things get hard. And it reminded me that the best views come after the hardest climbs cliché, I know, but true.

If you are thinking about Island Peak, don’t just think about the summit. Think about the entire journey the laughter in Namche, the yaks in Dingboche, the frost on your sleeping bag, and that final rope stretch where you become more mountain than person.